Finding the right replacement brake pad can be a little daunting. They all kind of look the same, right? Well, we are here to help. We have created three easy steps to help you choose the right brake pads for your needs.
STEP ONE: Identify your brake pad
Your brake system will require a specific brake pads for fitment and operation. For fitment and safety, the correct brake pad must be selected for your brakes. As there can be an overlap between systems, please use the filter option to find the right make & model.
The Best Way to Identify Your Pads
We believe the best way to ensure you get the correct shape of brake pad for your bike is to use the brake calliper Make & Model (not the bike itself!). You can usually find this written on the brake calliper itself!
STEP TWO: Select Your Pad Material
Want the pad material you had before? Then we won't bore you with the below information, don't fix something that isn't broken. We have some information below if you want to learn more or change combinations. The main point to remember with changing disc brake compounds is that you will need to replace your rotor for optimal brake performance. We will discuss this further down.
STEP TWO: Select Your Pad Material
Want the pad material you had before? Then we won't bore you with the below information, don't fix something that isn't broken. We have some information below if you want to learn more or change combinations. The main point to remember with changing disc brake compounds is that you will need to replace your rotor for optimal brake performance. We will discuss this further down.
In regular independent tests EBC brake products are shown to not just meet but exceed OEM manufacturer parts by a healthy margin in:
- Pad Lifetime
- Low disc/rotor abrasion
- Heat performance
- Reduction of brake dust
- Environmental credentials
- Designed for general use including Road, Cross-Country and Trekking
- Medium/soft pad compound for better stopping
- This is a RESIN pad, made of an organic compound
- Can be used on hardened or non-hardened rotors
- Supplied with uprated return springs in spring based systems.
- Medium lifetime pad for all conditions
- High durability sintered metal pad for long life in harsh conditions
- Highest friction rating of any sintered pad on the market
- Sintered copper construction
- Supplied with uprated return springs in spring based systems.
- Do NOT use these on rotors marked RESIN pad as these discs will be UNHARDENED steel and sintered pads could damage soft materials
- Not recommended for downhill unless originally fitted
- High friction pad for downhill riding
- Handles extreme heat under heavy braking
- Minimum heat transfer to hydraulic system
- This is a RESIN pad, made of organic compound
- Can be used on non-hardened or hardened rotors
- Supplied with uprated return springs in spring based systems.
- Soft Compound with shorter lifetime, but low rotor damage
Wanting To Change Compounds?
Now, if you are looking at changing up those brake pads, we can help explain what a new compound will perform like on the road or trail. The pad compound relates to the material that contacts the rotor. Compounds generally come in two flavours: Sintered: Pad material contains pieces of metal within the compound. Organic: Pad material contains various organic materials (non-metallic).
Pad compound change and rotors
During the bed-in process of hydraulic disc brakes, a thin layer of brake pad material is transferred onto the rotor. This friction between the two surfaces enables powerful braking. When changing brake pad compounds, it is crucial to replace the rotors as well to achieve optimal performance with your hydraulic disc brakes. Below is a table indicating which combinations of brake pad compounds and rotors require replacement for the best results.
Pad compound change and rotors
During the bed-in process of hydraulic disc brakes, a thin layer of brake pad material is transferred onto the rotor. This friction between the two surfaces enables powerful braking. When changing brake pad compounds, it is crucial to replace the rotors as well to achieve optimal performance with your hydraulic disc brakes. Below is a table indicating which combinations of brake pad compounds and rotors require replacement for the best results.
STEP THREE: Installation
Once you have determined the correct shape and compound, it is time to install the new brake pads. We have some careful considerations below; Oil from your hands can contaminate surfaces. Don't touch the braking surface of the pad or the rotor, as oil from your hands can contaminate the pad and reduce the braking performance. Don't forget to push your pistons back! Your old brake pads here are your friend, so don't throw them out. Use the old pads and a flathead screwdriver or tire lever to help push the pistons back into the calliper. This will reduce any risk of damage to the pistons as the pads will protect them. As your pads wear out, the piston advances to maintain the same lever feel. If you don't push the pistons back into the caliper, it will be very difficult to install the new pads and even harder to install the wheel with the rotor. If you get the wheel in, the lever will have limited throw. Make sure you replace the pad retention pin and e-clip. Forgetting to install the pin would result in the pads coming out of the calliper when you need them most. The e-clip is a necessary secondary safety measure critical for rider safety. You will need to perform a piston advance before you ride. The SRAM disc brake and shifter manual will run you through the use of pad spacers and the steps to advance your piston with pads installed to the desired location for optimal lever feel. Brake bed-in is critical for new brake systems, pads, and rotors. Bed-in is a quick but critical process that ensures you get the best performance out of your brake system. Skipping this step can lead to poor performance, noise, and inconsistent braking.